Archive for April 2012


April 3, 2012


I’m having fun updating some favorite posts from the archives, like this one, from the days when I didn’t photograph the food I cooked. If you missed these posts the first time around, please enjoy them now. With photos and new links, too.


Pâte feuilletée.


Just the thought of making something with such an elegant name scares the bedoodles out of me. If I hadn’t watched Julia Child on television, smearing the butter and folding and turning and folding and turning again, making it all seem so utterly doable, I never would have tried to make puff pastry from scratch.

I did make it.

One time.

Then I discovered frozen puff pastry. Someone else does the smearing and folding and turning for you. Imagine that! Puff pastry any time, without devoting an entire day to making it.


What makes puff pastry puff are the many layers of blobs of butter sandwiched between layers of dough that, when baked, rise to several times their original height without any yeast or leavening. When heated, the butter in the dough melts, causing the layers to separate. The water in the butter turns to steam, puffing up the pastry with air bubbles that become trapped to form air pockets. In the classical pâte feuilletée recipe, made by folding and turning the dough six times, the finished dough has close to 1500 layers of butter and flour.

The two most available brands of frozen puff pastry are definitely not alike. Dufours, sometimes available at Whole Foods markets, is made with all butter; Pepperidge Farm, always in the freezer case of my local supermarket, contains no butter. Yes, Dufours tastes better, and rises higher when baked. It’s also twice as expensive, and much harder to find.

To thaw, remove as many pastry sheets as needed (wrap unused sheets in plastic wrap or foil and return them to the freezer) and thaw in the refrigerator (approximately 4 hours per sheet), which ensures that the pastry will thaw evenly. If you’re in a hurry, unwrap and separate the pastry sheets and thaw at room temperature for 30-45 minutes.

Puff pastry makes wonderful savory dishes like chutney cheese puffs andpuff pastry baskets with artichoke and pesto filling, or the topping for achicken pot pie, as well as beautiful sweet desserts like palmiers. And, as in the recipe below, it can turn the ordinary into something truly elegant, as befits the name pâte feuilletée.


Asparagus and cheese tart

Adapted from Great Food Fast, a great little cookbook from the kitchens of Martha Stewart Living. Try to find asparagus spears that are straight, and of uniform width. Makes one tart that serves 4-6 people for lunch, with a side salad or bowl of soup.


1 sheet frozen puff pastry
1-1/2 cups gruyere, Emmental or swiss cheese, shredded
1 pound medium asparagus
1 Tbsp olive oil
Salt and pepper


Preheat oven to 400°F. On a floured surface, open the sheet of pastry into a square. Trim uneven edges. Place the pastry on a baking sheet. With a sharp knife score the dough one inch in from the edges on all four sides, to form a border. Using a fork, pierce the dough inside the markings at half-inch intervals. Bake until golden, about 12-13 minutes.

Remove the pastry from the oven, and sprinkle the cheese inside the border. Trim the bottoms of the asparagus spears to fit crosswise inside the tart shell; arrange in a single layer over the cheese. Brush with oil, and season with salt and pepper. Bake 18-20 minutes, or until spears are tender. Serve warm.


Seafood Paella | Avec Eric

April 3, 2012

Seafood Paella | Avec Eric.

Seafood Paella | Avec Eric

April 3, 2012

Orzo, and other small pasta (Recipe: cold curried orzo)


Poor orzo.

Compared to the other small, stubby pastas, with lyrical names likeditalini (little thimbles), annelini (little rings), acini de pepe (little beads),tubettini (little tubes), tripolini (little bows) and stelline (little stars), orzo sounds so… well, so pedestrian.

It definitely needs another syllable or two to fit in with the other pastas, but in taste, texture, and versatility, orzo (which means “barley” in Italian) leads the pack.

Known collectively as “soup pasta”, most small and stubby pastas are made from semolina (white or whole wheat), and do their best work in place of rice or noodles in soup, where they add bulk and texture, and absorb the flavors around them.

(Did you know that, in the United States, by law a noodle must contain 5.5 percent egg solids to be called a noodle? So without egg, a noodle really isn’t a noodle. So don’t call orzo a noodle; call it pasta.)